Hvar, one of Croatia’s most popular island destinations, is mostly known for its glitzy, jet-setting culture. Between June and September, throngs of super yachts dock in Grad Hvar, or Hvar Town, unloading celebrities and wealthy tourists alike. While many come to the island in the main season for the summer party culture, visiting in the spring before the main season offers a more peaceful but still fulfilling experience. The island’s notorious clubs are closed and businesses keep irregular hours, but if you’re looking for a more cultural and nature-based visit, read on for five activities to capitalize on the serenity of the off season.
1. Ride a Vespa Along the Adriatic
Fulfill the romantic European fantasy of riding a Vespa along the coast. There’s a reason this recommendation is number one on the list. The unparalleled views of the Adriatic will remain imprinted in your memory and you won’t soon forget the exhilaration of salt air whipping through your hair as you fly down the island’s main highway. In Hvar Town, there are numerous places to rent a variety of vehicles, including Vespas and other motor bikes, and with a deposit down, you can choose to rent for a full or half day. Either way, you’ll enjoy the quintessential Dalmatian island experience and the memory will have you googling “how to get Croatian citizenship” when you return home.
2. Walk the Promenade
The Croatians have a saying that characterizes their traditional coastal lifestyle: pomelo, pomelo, or “slowly, slowly.” A lazy stroll down Hvar Town’s famous seaside promenade exemplifies this appreciation for savoring the pleasures of the day and avoiding unnecessary stress. Wander leisurely in either direction from the city center for beautiful sea views and some light exercise to work off the copious aperol spritzes that you will have consumed in your time in this stunning country. Since the notorious beach clubs just west of town will be closed, you won’t have to fight for a beach chair if you take the stairs down to the rocky coastline below and dip your toes in the Adriatic unburdened by the normal touristic mob. For an extra element of romance, time your walk to reach the west side of the island for sunset. Breathe in the salt air and breathe out the work stress as you watch the sun sink below the horizon in a slow burst of orange and pink.
3. Visit the Abandoned Village of Malo Grablje
The windswept grasses of Hvar’s golden hills hide a beautiful, decaying piece of local history — the stone ruins of Malo Grablje. Since the 14th century, the townspeople cultivated a variety of vines and trees, soon becoming famous for its locally produced olive oil, wine, and lavender oil. After a blight of disease destroyed the olive groves, most of the population migrated south. As of today, the village is officially abandoned and preserved by the island as a historical monument, well-known to residents but often overlooked by visitors. You can read more about the town’s history and local legends in my article on Atlas Obscura.
To find this historical treasure, take the main highway east from Hvar Town. Pass the southern turnout for Milna, and take the next northern exit. Swerve the potholes on the paved road that passes through briar thickets and when the road turns to dirt, look for a left turn. Here, you’ll see the first stone buildings. While the road seems unused, farmers from the lavender-producing towns to the north pass through here in their trucks, so make sure to park off to the side. From there, you can hike up to the buildings dotting the hill. For an extra element of adventure, rent a Vespa for the journey. After you’ve worked up a sweat hiking through Malo Grablje, stop at the seaside in Milna for gelato, the shops’ irregular off-season schedules permitting.
A note on safety: I don’t recommend entering any buildings beyond the first floor, as long as it has a solid dirt or stone foundation. Many upper levels have rotting wooden floorboards and some are collapsing entirely. If you do choose to go upstairs, exercise extreme caution. Also, make sure to wear closed-toed shoes and long pants to avoid cuts from the sharp grasses and rusted machinery.
4. Relax on the Uncrowded Beaches
Normally tourists flock to the island’s sandy beaches, a novelty among Dalmatia’s rocky coast, but in the spring, you can enjoy mild weather with only a sprinkling of other visitors as you sunbathe. Take advantage of the serenity by visiting Pokonji Dal, a secluded beach east of Grad Hvar. As one of the south shore’s most picturesque beaches, it’s normally packed in the high season but by avoiding the crowds on a spring visit, you can relax in with relative privacy. Before you go, pick up some local cheese and fresh bread from the residential area’s Tommy Supermarket. The few restaurants and cafes at the beach serve mediocre, overpriced food, so avoid the unnecessary expense with a picnic. From the residential area, hike down the hillside for a beautiful view as you emerge from the trees. If walking directly from the old town, follow the promenade east around several mini-peninsulas until you reach the large inlet with shimmering turquoise water.
5. Cat-Spotting in Grad Hvar
Istanbul, Turkey is the only place I’ve seen cats more well cared for by the community as a whole. Whether lounging on the sun-soaked stone piazza in front of Katedrala sv. Stjepana (St. Stephen’s Cathedral) or nestled in the flower pots in historical gated garden between the old town and eastern residential area, these friendly critters will shamlessly trot right up to you looking for attention. Some are outside house-pets and some are strays, so use your discretion in touching them. But no matter their level of domestication, these cats are truly the island’s most charming and photogenic residents.
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